Long Live McQueen - Royal Wedding Part 2

For the evening celebrations, Catherine Middleton chose another Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen gown. With a jewel embellished waistband and cropped white mohair cardigan, this look was a lot simpler than her wedding dress.

Here's a sketch of the gown which was worn by Prince Harry's on-off girlfriend Chelsy Davy by fashion house Alberta Feretti for the evening celebrations.

At the wedding, Princesses of York, Beatrice and Eugenie wore quite contrasting looks. Staying true to her British roots, Princess Eugenie stood out wearing a bright blue Vivienne Westwood dress with three bows across the front jacket. Choosing to wear Valentino instead of a British designer, Beatrice wore a Valentino Spring 2011 Couture coat and dress. Both girls wore Philip Treacy fascinators.

Crown Princess of Sweden wore a long sleeved, peach Eli Saab dress from his 2011 Spring collection.

Zara Phillips, daughter of Princess Anne arrived with her fiancee rugby player MIke Tindall. She was wearing a monochromatic silver bespoke Paul Costelloe dress with a large black hat.

Carole Middleton, Catherine's mother, wore a light blue Catherine Walker blue wool crepe coatdress with matching satin piping over a light blue silk shantung day dress. Catherine Walker was a favourite designer of the late Princess Diana. Middleton's hat was made by British designer Jane Corbett.

Standing out from the crowd in what one commentator called "the sexiest outfit" of the day, Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg's wife Miriam Gonzalez Duantez, a spanish attorney, wore a bright ref flower fascinator and figure hugging silver dress with polkadot lace overlay.

British socialite Tara Palmer-Tomkinson wore head-to-toe bright blue. Wearing a Deborah Milner dress accessorised with matching gloves, Nicholas Kirkwood heels with pearl detailing and a a boat-shaped Philip Treacy fascinator.

Wife of Saudi Prince Al Walid bin Talal, Princess Ameerah Al Taweel, looked stunning in a beautiful custom made Zuhair Murad couture coat dress. Made from satin, the dress was accentuated with silk lace and hand embroidered organza flowers. 

Click here for Part 1 of the Royal Wedding fashion.

Images courtesy of http://www.zimbio.com, http://flutterandsparkle.blogspot.com, http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk and www.redcarpetfashionawards.com

Long Live McQueen - Royal Wedding Part 1

After months of speculation, Catherine Middleton chose a beautiful lace detailed dress by British designer Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen to celebrate her wedding to Prince William. Working with Burton to design the dress, Middleton wanted a dress that combined modern and traditional elements which was true to the Alexander McQueen label.

The lace applique for the bodice and skirt was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework using a lace-making technique which originated in Ireland in the 1820s.

Catherine's sister and chief bridesmaid Philippa Middleton wore a modified 2009 McQueen pre-fall gown which had the same lace and buttons as the bride.

Victoria Beckham looked lovely in a Victoria Beckham 2011 navy fall dress (which hid her baby bump), Victoria Beckham clutch, Philip Treacy hat and custom designed 6 inch Christian Louboutins. David Beckham looked stylish in a Ralph Lauren 3 piece suit and top hat, with his OBE medal pinned to his right lapel.

Prince Harry's on-off girlfriend Chelsy Davy wore a custom made aqua green Alberta Ferretti skirt and off-the-shoulder jacket with a bow at the back, which was one of two outfits made for her by the design house for the day. The second will be a full length navy gown with cutout detail on the back. Her hat was made by milliner Victoria Grant.

Supporting Australian designers, Prime Minister Julia Gillard wore a knee-length navy skirt by Anthea Crawford, a Carla Zampatti camisole and oyster coloured Aurelio Costarella jacket. Her shoes and handbag are designed by Alan Pinkus and her fascinator was purchased from David Jones.

Click here for Part 2 of the Royal Wedding fashion.

All the best to the happy couple!

What are your thoughts on the fashion?

Information sourced from http://www.officialroyalwedding2011.org/
Images courtesy of www.redcarpetfashionawards.com, www.dailymail.co.uk and news.com.au

A Week In The Wardrobe Of - Cecylia Kee Part 2

Here is Part 2 of my Week In The Wardrobe Of feature with Cecylia Kee (to see Part 1 click here):

THURSDAY

Top, pants, bangle: Vintage

Bag: Vintage Christian Dior

Ring: YSL

Shoes: Nine West

FRIDAY

Dress: Miss Lyndel Yeo MLY

Belt: Vintage thermometer

Shoes: Chloe 

SATURDAY

Jacket, jumpsuit, brooch and sunnies: Vintage

Bag: Vintage Christian Dior

Sandals: Country Road

SUNDAY

Jacket - Zara

Dress - Gifted

Necklace, belt and watch: Vintage

Shoes: Country Road

To see more of Cecylia's great style, visit her blog. Cecylia Boutique is located at 1113 High Street, Armadale, Victoria. Click here to visit Cecylia Boutique's website.

Images courtesy of Cecylia Kee.

Désir du jour - Lucy Folk

Feeling like pasta for dinner? Unfortunately you can't eat these beautiful necklaces, but inspired by cute bow tie pasta, they look like the real thing! Available in black and silver, these items are a classic example of jeweller Lucy Folk's food inspired pieces. Taking inspiration from food such as corn chips, pretzels and seafood, Folk has created a four collections of yummy jewellery which looks good enough to eat!

After finishing a Bachelor of Fine Arts at RMIT University in 2003 with a major in Gold and Silversmithing, Folk completed an internship in Berlin with renowned design collection Chicks on Speed. Upon returning to Australia in 2005, Folk launched her range of "wearable food". Each piece is made out of 18ct silver or gold and is stamped with a limited edition number. Each piece is handcrafted so no two piece is the same.

Her kitch jewellery has been seen on rapper Snoop Dogg and singer Lily Allen, and in 2008 she was nominated as 'Accessory Designer of the Year' by Marie Claire.

For those of you looking for a way to combine your love for food with your love for fashion then look no further than Lucy Folk's unique designs.

Information and image sourced from www.lucyfolk.com

Désir du jour - Milk From A Thistle

Who doesn't love horses?! This whimsical Lounge Silk Tee Stallion Print made by Australian label Milk From a Thistle features a beautiful horse print on 100% silk and best of all, it's made in Australia. Available for $225 on the online store, this lovely print is also available on a skirt, blazer and dress giving you many options to buy this unique design.

After starting out working in indie music, designer Danielle Atkinson decided to follow her passion which was fashion. After studying textile design at East Sydney TAFE, Atkinson launched Milk From A Thistle. Featuring beautiful fabrics, unique prints and wearable garments, Atkinson's label has continue to develop with each collection. With different graphics each season, Milk From a Thistle will add something a little unique to your wardrobe.

Information and image sourced from www.milkfromathistle.portableshops.com

A Week In The Wardrobe Of - Cecylia Kee Part 1

One thing I love about fashion is the way each person has their own unique style and can interpret even the most basic items in so many different ways. I really enjoy meeting people for whom dressing isn’t just a necessity, but a way of expressing their personalities.  "A Week In The Wardrobe Of" feature will focus on people who not only have inspirational style, but who have a great outlook on life.

Today I'll be featuring the first 3 of 7 different looks from Cecylia boutique co-owner Cecylia Kee. After starting out as a vet, Cecylia decided to start her own boutique, Cecylia, on High Street in Armadale. The boutique just recently turned 1 and I was lucky enough to attend the celebrations!

Cecylia's style is a great mix of vintage and designer pieces, many of which can be bought from her beautiful store.

In order to learn more about Cecylia's style, she answered a few questions for me:

Q1. How would you describe your style in 5 words?

A. Modern, romantic with an edge.

Q2. If you were a brand, what brand would you be?

A. I would be a fusion of Erdem and Preen, girly prints mixed with clean structured lines.

Q3. What is your most treasured item?

A. My most treasured item would be my beloved husband - after all we are an item!

Q4. Who's wardrobe would you like to have for a week?

A. I would love to have Anna Dello Russo's wardrobe forever! Or Taylor Tomasi-Hill (Accessories Editor of Marie Claire US)...Hmmm Kate Bosworth's if i could fit into her garments!

Q5. What is your fashion motto?

A. Every day is worth dressing up for.

Check out some of Cecylia's enviable wardrobe below:



MONDAY

Coat : Vintage

Dress: Gail Sorronda

Necklace: Mawi

Bag: Bally

Shoes: Repetto



TUESDAY

Top: Vintage John Cavill

Shorts: Amy Kaene (Available from Cecylia)

Necklace: Damselfly

Belt and Sunnies: Vintage

Shoes: Robert Robert

Ring: YSL

WEDNESDAY

Coat, necklace and bag - Vintage

Dress- Karla Spetic

Ring: Mawi (Available from Cecylia Boutique)

Shoes - Repetto (Available from Cecylia Boutique)

Click here for Part 2!

Désir du jour - Carl Kapp

Rachael Taylor in a beautiful Carl Kapp gown

Showing his first show at RAFW this May, Australian designer Carl Kapp has come a long way since he launched his first collection in 2006. Counting Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman and Rose Byrne as loyal followers, Kapp’s clever Lanvin-esque designs feature draping and details that make his garments come to life when worn. Working under Kenzo and Donna Karan before starting his own label, Kapp went on to win the 2008 Chambord Shine Awards, beating out other talented labels including Romance Was Born and Friedrich Gray.

What originally started as a Carl Kapp pop-up store in Paddington, Sydney has now become a permanent flagship store due to its success. It has even become a tourist attraction, with people regularly visiting to see the constantly changing window displays.

Not just a designer, Kapp is a smart businessman. Kapp offers his global clientele a bespoke and “e-tail” service. With just three basic measurements from a client, Kapp can whip up a custom-made piece for any occasion.

In his debut RAFW show, Kapp says we can expect bright details, jewel tones and soft gelati colours, some of the hues dyed especially for Kapp’s pieces.  Everything will be made of silk and feature Kapp’s signature attention to detail.

The Chameleon dress is one of Kapp’s trademark pieces. Available in short or maxi length, this unique dress can be worn over 9 different ways making the dress great value for money! Available for $1,000 on Kapp's online store, the dress can be made for you in any colour, with an option to have hand beaded panels attached for added glamour. As with all Kapp's pieces, you can submit any questions you may have about the garment to Kapp. It's these little details that makes Kapp not only a great designer, but a great businessman.


Information sourced from www.carlkapp.com
Images courtesy of www.redcarpetfashionawards.com and www.carlkapp.com.

The Dark Side Of The Loom - Part 2

Part 1 of Dark Side Of The Loom discussed some of the difficulties facing up-and-coming designers today. Part 2 continues this discussion, also covering some of the business decisions designers have had to make in order to survive in the industry.

It's also a belief that the Australian market does not have the same appreciation for fashion as overseas' markets that value high-end designs.  This may be because people value other luxuries in preference to fashion, such as cars or holidays.  It also stems from a lack of understanding of and appreciation for the general value of how much high-end designers charge.

Cate Blanchett in the infamous
Romance Was Born blanket dress

I was recently reading a post by an Australian designer who produces their designs in Australia. This means that they are supporting the Australian industry at a cost to them, as production costs are more expensive to the designer. They said that a customer complained about one of their designs being too expensive. As well as the design being a one-off, it was a much better quality than many of the mass-produced item manufactured overseas. In an educated or more appreciative consumer market like Europe, the consumer might not see the item as expensive; rather they might see it as a good investment.

Obviously this is a generalisation of the Australian market, however it does pose a problem for designers who target the higher end of the market. In order to establish brand value they have to set high price points, however, this makes their goods unaffordable to many and they run the risk of losing business to established luxury goods houses like LV and Chanel.

Designers have turned to the overseas market to try to make up for low sales in Australia.  The issue is that they are subject to foreign currency fluctuations and freight and distribution costs, and do not possess the marketing power that overseas designers do. This means designers have very limited options when it comes to working out how they can make money.



Alex Perry for Diva



Recent trends have shown many designers collaborating with not only chain stores such as Sportsgirl, Cue (Dion Lee) Big W (Peter Morrissey) and Diva (Alex Perry), but some have also released diffusion lines in retailers such as Myer (Nicola Finetti and Jayson Brunsdon). This means not only can they take advantage of department stores’ bigger advertising budgets but it also broadens their consumer base. Even though this risks reducing their brand value, in order to survive many have no choice.

Designer Alex Perry indicates that today’s new wave of designers such as Dion Lee and Romance Was Born will have many challenges to face. In an already saturated fashion market, they need to stand out and attract editorial space and coverage. This often means that designs may be more couture than ready-to-wear, which is not going to sell well in the commercial market. It will be a difficult decision for designers to make. Should they compromise their design aesthetic in order to appeal to a wider audience?

Over the coming weeks, I’ll be talking to up-and-coming designers to better understand the challenges they face trying to make it in such a competitive industry.

Post your thoughts and experiences on the issues covered in The Dark Side Of The Loom. I'd love to hear what people have to say!

Images courtesy of http://fabulouslyhandmade.blogspot.com/2010/07/born-again-granny.html and http://www.theknot.com.au/bridal-fashion/accessories-jewellery/alex-perry-for-diva-behind-the-scenes-video

Désir du jour - Jolet

Formally trained in graphic design at the prestigious Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, designer Jolet Ucchino decided to use her skills to start her own label. In 2008, Jolet the label was born. Featuring interesting cuts and silhouettes, Jolet designs incorporate unique folds and pleats whilst maintaining wearability. She easily juxtaposes masculine shapes with feminine materials and features. 

Working under Akira Isogawa, Rich and Claude Maus, Ucchino was able to hone her design skills. Winning numerous awards including the Fledgling Designer Project held by Melbourne label Body in 2007, Ucchino's collections show how she is continuing to develop as a designer. The pieces in each season work well together to allow the Jolet customer to easily layer different garments.

In her AW11 collection, Ucchino has used her skills in graphic design to introduce a new element to her pieces. Ucchino has incorporated a beautiful winter landscape into her designs by using the print to enhance dresses, shirts and skirts.

I love the use of cooling colours and print on the Winter Melancholy Silk Dress, which turns a simple dress into something unique. The print has creatively been used not only on the body of the dress but also on the voluminous sleeves. Stockists for Ucchino's beautiful designs can be found here.

Ucchino is another designer who has chosen to support the Australian industry by not shifting her manufacturing off-shore. 


Although at higher cost to the designer, it's great to see up-and-coming labels keeping work in the country. Hopefully other labels continue to follow brands like Jolet and support the Australian manufacturing industry.

Image and information sourced from http://jolet.com.au

Interview - Gail Sorronda Part 1

Where once designers spent most of their time on the creative elements of a fashion label, focusing on the business side has become increasingly important in order to succeed in such a competitive industry.

In order to address this trend, my interviews will not just cover a designer's work, but also include discussion on the business elements underpinning a label.

Since launching her label in 2005, Gail Sorronda designer Gail Reid has built a strong following for her luxe designs and unique tailoring. Favouring black and white in her collections, Reid has not only achieved success in Australia, but has attracted the eye of international fashion followers. Hand picked to be displayed in Dolce and Gabbana's boutique Spiga2 in Milan, Reid has a celebrity following including the likes of Dita Von Teese, model Lily Collins and blogger Susie Bubble.

I was lucky enough to interview Gail to learn more about her experience in the fashion industry. 

1. You started your label in 2005 after winning the Mercedes-Benz Start-Up Awards. Why did you want to work in the fashion industry, and in particular, be a designer?

I’ve always been inspired by body adornment and I personally enjoy expressing myself through my clothing. When I first started my label I designed with myself in mind, six years on I still do to an extent. I never gravitated to the industry; I gravitated to the art of fashion design.

2. Being a designer is not just about designing, it’s also about business. What were some of the challenges you faced dealing with the business side of fashion (e.g. manufacturing products, promotion of your brand and sourcing stockists)? How do you believe up-and-coming designers today can be better equipped to deal with these challenges?

Combining the creative with commercial viability was and will always be a challenge.  If what you create is desirable and had a distinct point of difference then challenges such as building your stockist list and brand promotion are dealt with organically. Young designers need to be true to themselves. A mentor helps too!

3. You have had a lot of international success with your brand, stocking beside Dolce & Gabbana at Spiga2 in Milan. Why do you choose to still support the Australian economy by manufacturing your clothes in Australia? Why do you believe it is so important for Australian designers to do so?

I don’t like the idea of exploiting cheap labour offshore. And I don’t like the idea of planned obsolescence. I personally would rather purchase a beautifully made dress made in Australia for $600 that will last a lifetime than a $60 mass produced dress that will end up being landfill.

4. Your collections are very dynamic and continuously evolving while maintaining your brand aesthetic. How do you ensure you keep developing as a designer so your designs are fresh every season?

All of my designs are inspired by a feeling, and feelings are infinite. 

Find Part 2 of my interview with Gail Reid here.

Here are some of the beautiful designs from Gail's current collection Polar Desert:

Desert Kisses Dress

Star Dust Dress

Mars Dress

Stardust Neckpiece 

Polar Desert Jacket

Polar Desert Hat

Solarise Shirt Dress

Eclipse Pant

Solarise Jacket Dress

Images courtesy of http://gailsorronda.portableshops.com/

1.

Désir du jour - El Amuleto

If you're looking for unique take on the staple leather jacket this Winter, then look no further than El Amuleto's Rosalinas Success Puff Sleeve Jacket. Unexpectedly mixing the sleeve silhouette from traditional Mexican dress with black leather, has created a jacket which has the ability to transform any outfit. Currently on sale for $200 at El Amuleto's online boutique, this jacket, although unique in shape, has a classic appeal that will see you through many cold months.

The Rosalia necklace from El Amuleto's
Winter collection

El Amuleto was the brainchild of designer Andrea Ioannou who was inspired by her visit to Mexico in 2008 to create her own label. Using concepts from Mexico's beautiful tradition and design, Ioannou went about creating a label which was "an Australian brand at heart and a Mexican Spanish brand in mindset."

Ioannou's unique combination of influences, has created collections which transport the wearer to a richly exotic place. The colours used are reminiscent of Mexican waters and the dry Mexican lands.

Bohemian with a modern twist, Ioannou's designs are carefully crafted to celebrate the female form. Featuring ready-to-wear pieces, jewellery and bags, the El Amuleto collections are a refreshing take on traditional ideas.

Information and images sourced from http://www.wix.com/elamuleto/elamuleto/home#!__home

The Dark Side Of The Loom - Part 1

Friedrich Gray designer Ben Pollitt

Garment manufacturing has thankfully progressed from the days of the loom, but this play on Pink Floyd’s legendary album (suggested by one of my creative colleagues) seemed a fitting title for this post.

Although the fashion industry seems glamorous from the outside, the harsh reality is that behind the glitz and glamour, many designers in Australia are struggling. With the retail industry not having recovered from the GFC, even established brands are having to change the way they do business.

A recent article by Georgia Safe (New labels struggle to soar) discusses the difficulties facing Australian brands.

After being in operation for 6 years, Friedrich Gray’s designer Ben Pollitt has decided to take a break from his label. Three years ago, Pollitt was heralded as the designer to watch after he wowed the crowds at Australian Fashion Week. His bold and daring designs featured in magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. However, as is a common thread with many Australian designers, he has been unable to make sufficient sales to keep the label going.

A lot of the time, designers cannot afford support staff so they try to juggle designing with running a business.  Designer Dion Lee found this to be an issue when he first started, but he has been lucky enough to generate sufficient sales - thanks to his exposure to both domestic and overseas markets – allowing him to hire staff to assist with his business. (Read more about Dion Lee here).

Pollit also indicated that there were not enough stores in Australia to support his label. It was not until I began talking to and interviewing retailers that I discovered they cannot stock every label they want. If an established store is already stocking a particular label, they may have an agreement with the designer to limit who else can stock their product, in essence giving them a monopoly over the market. Although this is good for the store, it is not good for the designer, nor the consumer, as it gives them free reign over price. Although the designer may have guaranteed sales with that particular store, their other sales will be limited. This means orders will be reduced, decreasing production numbers. A decrease in production numbers means that designers cannot take advantage of economies of scale, making production costs very expensive.

I was surprised to read in the article that established Australian designer Jayson Brunsdon wasn’t shocked to hear of Friedrich Gray’s impending closure. 

Designs from Brunsdon's collection from Myer

Despite being in the fashion industry for more that 20 years, Brunsdon indicated that the GFC almost cost him his business. With stockists overseas having to close their businesses, Brunsdon was not paid for stock, meaning he was in financial dire straits.

Brunsdon managed to weather the storm and continues to design today. Other brands have also been lucky. Australian business wear company Herringbone and established jeans brand Ksubi both went into voluntary administration during the GFC, but both were rescued by investors who could see some value in the brands.

Part 2 of The Dark Side Of The Loom available here.

Image courtesy of http://www.mycatwalk.com.au/designer/friedrich-gray/jeans.html and http://coolfwdmail.blogspot.com/2009/08/models-showcase-designs-by-jayson.html

Désir du jour - Lanvin

Lanvin's SS10 ad campaign

Founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, Lanvin is one of the world's most prestigious fashion houses. Starting out making clothing for her children, Lanvin launched her own label when her beautiful designs caught the eye of wealthy members of the community who commissioned her to make clothing for their children. Soon Lanvin opened her own boutique and also began making clothes for the mothers. As word of her designs spread, she became couturière to some of the most famous people in Europe.

The Lanvin label grew quickly, expanding to incorporate furs, lingerie, home decor and menswear. Lanvin's most important expansion was the development of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924. Lanvin's signature fragrance became Arpège which was inspired by the sound of her daughter practising arpeggios (scales) on the piano.

The use of trimmings, beaded detail, intricate embroideries and light floral patterns soon became Lanvin's trademark. She is known as one of the most influential designers of her time.

When Lanvin passed away in 1946, Lanvin's daughter took over the business with a cousin who was a fashion industry expert. During the mid to late 1900's, the ownership of Lanvin changed hands numerous times. In August 2001, the company was purchased by a private investor group Harmonie SA. In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed as artistic director of Lanvin, overseeing all design aspects of the brand.

Elbaz is very hands on in his approach of design, redesigning the packaging for the fashion house in 2006 using the colour of a forget-me-not flower, Jeanne Lanvin's favourite colour. Taking inspiration from Lanvin's classic designs from the 1920's, Elbaz's has strengthened the brand name with his ability to modernise traditional silhouettes.

Natalie Portman in Lavin's
asymmetric washed-satin gown

In 2010, Lanvin collaborated with Swedish high street brand H&M for their Winter collection. The collection was initially deemed a success with H&M sales jumping globally by 8%. However, some designs were not as well received by consumers, leaving H&M with excess stock. However, not wanting to waste the unsold pieces, in an ecological move H&M used fabric left over from the production of the Lanvin's collection to create a collection called Waste. Featuring bright graphics and harlequin prints, the pieces were well received.

With celebrity fans such as Natalie Portman, Michelle Obama and Charlize Theron, Elbaz's voluminous draped designs are regularly featured on the red carpet.

Worn by Natalie Portman, this satin gown is a modern twist on the timeless asymmetric shape. The strong jewel colour is enhanced by Lanvin's signature corsage and trademark draping. Available on Net-A-Porter for £2,195.08, this stunning gown is a fashion classic.

Information sourced from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanvin_(clothing) and http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/beauty/h-m-turns-lanvin-waste-into-new-collection-2444851
Image courtesy of http://fashion-bytes.blogspot.com/2010/09/lanvin-x-h.html